This section is relevant to unguided widefield images captured with a film or digital camera. It’s quite obvious that in order to capture fainter objects you have to increase the length of the exposure and how long the shutter is held open. However, if a camera shutter is left open, pointing at the sky, the apparent motion of the stars around Polaris causes the stars to “trail.” If you want to have pin-point sharp images of the stars then you have to limit the exposure time so that the motion of the star does not cause the image of the star to move over the CCD or negative. There are two factors that have to be taken into account.

First, the focal length of the lens – higher magnification increases the motion of image across the CCD or film.

Second, the apparent motion of the stars increases as you observe stars that are further away from the celestial pole i.e. increasing declination.

As a rule of thumb an exposure time of 20 seconds at the celestial equator (90 degrees to Polaris) is a reasonable exposure time for a 50mm lens. If you really zoom in, the stars will be oval rather than sharp points. At half the exposure time, the stars will be more point like but fainter objects may not be captured. Using 20 seconds, for a 50mm lens at celestial equator as a reference, it is possible to mathematically calculate the values for various focal lengths at specific declinations. 

 Regarding usage of the tables, 90 degrees would represent a star at the North or South pole and 0 degrees is the celestical equator. To understand the maths behind the tables I would recommend “Astrophotography for the Amateur” by Michael Covington.

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This is an easy and quick way to remove the effects of light pollution from widefield astronomical images. No specialist packages are involved, just off-the-shelf photo processing software. I have used this technique on both images from digital cameras and scans of negatives from exposed colour film. For this example I will use “The Gimp” a widely used freeware utility and a 20 second capture of Ursa Major taken from my home location and clearly shows the glow of street lights. The raw image is shown below and is a digital scan taken from a 35mm film negative.

With astronomical photos the processing machines cannot always detect the frame boundary and the negatives can be cut incorrectly. In rolling the film back up the processing lab scratched the negatives and the marks can be seen on the scanned image. I read that light pollution is usually in the mid-tones of the picture rather than the highlights or the mid tones.

The Gimp, like most photo software packages has a colour editing tool called Curves as shown below. The Curves tool shows a linear 45 degree line and allows the user to select either the red, green or blue channels or all three together (“value” or luminance).

To remove the majority of the light pollution, select the “value” channel and pull the center of the line towards the bottom right hand corner of the graphical area as shown below.

The results are immediate and easy to see. Depending on the exposure and the light pollution it may be better to adjust the red channel then the green and blue to get the best results. However, pulling the luminance line is a quick way to see what you’ve got. The image below shows the adjusted image with most of the light pollution removed.

It is possible to use other controls like histograms, but curves is the quickest and most intuitive way to edit pictures.

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Levelling telescopes

This seems a very simple subject but experience taught me how to get the scope as accurately level as possible in the minimum amount of time.

First thing to remember is that on soft ground always push down on the legs before mounting the scope and always place the level on the mounted OTA.

At first I was using a small spirit level from a DIY store to set up my tripod, but it proved difficult to place the level in order to check all the axes. As part of the ETX alignment process the OTA has to be level and it was hard to balance the DIY level on the telescope tube.  I tried a circular bubble level and although better than the DIY level it took quite a few separate adjustments to get the bubble centred. So I bought the two Engineering standard levels shown in the pictures below.

spirit_levels 2_axis_level levcelling_diagram

The two axis “T-level” makes levelling the telescope and tripod very easy and I can normally level with two, or maxiumum three, adjustments of the tripod legs. The level is aligned with axes A and B as shown in the diagram below. First adjust leg 1 to level axis A then adjust leg 2 to level axis B. Simplicity itself! Sometimes it is necessary to make one more adjustment but most times it has not been necessary.

The small square level is used for levelling the OTA during the ETX alignment. It’s small enough to sit comfortably on the curve of the OTA and is visible from all sides even using a red light torch.

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